TEXTILE CHEMISTRY

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Thursday, 4 September 2025

Printing of Cotton (Vat Dye)

           Vat dyes have an outstanding fastness to external agencies, like light, washing, bleaching,  rubbing, perspiration, etc.

    Therefore, vat dyes are used for shirting, window curtains, sarees, casement cloth, etc.

⇨ They can be classified into three distinct chemical groups: indigoid vat dyes, anthraquinonoid vat dyes, and sulfurized vat dyes.

   Vat dyes are forming leuco compounds with a reducing agent due to reduction, which are soluble in water, and the parent colour can be generated by oxidation.

     Vat dyes (indigo) can be printed by the glucose and hydrosulphite process by direct style of printing.

     Glucose Process:

       The fabric is padded with a 25% solution of glucose, dried, and printed with indigo (vat dye) with printing paste prepared under:

Ingredients

Quantity (Parts)

Indigo (vat dye)

50

Caustic soda (70˚Tw)

240

Water

260

Gum Arabic paste

450

Total

1000

       After printing and drying, the fabric is steamed at 100°C in air-free moist steam for a few minutes.

       Steamed fabric is passed through the solution for 15 minutes for oxidizing the dye as prepared as follows:

Ingredients

Quantity (Parts)

Sodium bicarbonate

20

Ammonium sulphate

10

Total (adjusted with water)

1000

       Finally, fabric is washed, soaped, and dried.

 

     Hydrosulphite Process:

       The fabric is printed with indigo (vat dye) with printing paste prepared as under:

Ingredients

Quantity (Parts)

Indigo (vat dye)

150

Alkaline thickening

350

Formosul

80

Alkaline thickening

420

Total

1000

       After printing and drying, the fabric is steamed at 102°C for 2–3 minutes in a Rapid ager.

       Steamed fabric is oxidized in a chrome bath.

       Finally, fabric is washed, soaped, and dried.

       Alkaline thickening is prepared by mixing 30 parts maize paste and 100 parts British gum paste with 870 parts caustic soda (77˚Tw)

 

     Potash Rongalite Method: (for anthraquinonoid vat dyes)

       This is the most popular method for printing the vat dyes.

       The fabric is printed with vat dye by preparing printing paste as under:

Ingredients

Quantity (Parts)

Vat dye

200

Glycerine

50

Solution Salt B

30

Starch-tragacanth paste

500

Potassium carbonate

120

Rongalite C

100

Total

1000

       After printing, the fabric is dried as quickly as possible and steamed for 5–10 minutes in air-free moist steam at 100–102°C.

       Steamed fabric is rinsed and then oxidized at 50°C for 2–5 minutes in a solution containing:

Ingredients

Quantity (Parts)

Sodium bicarbonate

2

Acetic acid

5

Total (adjusted with water)

1000

       Finally, the fabric is washed, soaped at a boil, rinsed, and dried.

References:

Sr.

No.

Title of Book

Author

Publication with place, year and ISBN

      1           

Technology of Printing Vol – IV

Dr V.A. Shehnai

 

Sevak Publications, Mumbai 1990

      2           

Textile Printing

L.W.C. Miles

Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1981, ISBN: 9780901956330

      3           

Introduction to Textile Printing

W. Clarke

Wood-head Publishing Ltd., Cambridge, ISBN: 9781855739949

      4           

Technology of Printing

R. S. Prayag

Shree J. Printers, Pune

      5           

An Introduction to Textile Coloration: Principles and Practices

Roger H. Wardman

Wiley, 1st edition

ISBN: 978-1119121565